Yellow Gold And Enamel Bracelet – Tiffany & Co.
An 18k yellow gold bangle style bracelet joined by push box clasp. Features 18k yellow gold raised accents with blue paillonné enamel, layered over 18k yellow gold leaf. Manufactured by Tiffany & Co., designed by Jean Schlumberger. “Dot Losange Bracelet”. Signed, Schlumberger Studios, marked “750 France”. Size: 3 in. w. Good condition.
Replacement Value: $42,400.00
In 1956, the president of Tiffany & Co., Walter Hoving, asked Schlumberger to begin designing for the firm. He had his own workshop at the company until his retirement in the late 1970s and was eventually made a Vice-President.
Schlumberger’s designs at Tiffany & Co. were remarkable for their whimsical interpretations of natural forms. He was especially inspired by sea creatures and other animals. Diana Vreeland wrote that Schlumberger “appreciates the miracle of jewels. For him, they are the ways and means to the realization of his dreams.”
He quickly built an impressive client base that included the Duchess of Windsor, Babe Paley, Greta Garbo, Mona von Bismarck, Rachel Lambert Mellon, Jayne Wrightsman, C.Z. Guest, Gloria Guinness, Françoise de Langlade, Princess Marina, Duchess of Kent, Lyn Revson, Gloria Vanderbilt, Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn.
For his wife, Jacqueline Kennedy, John F. Kennedy purchased the famous Two Fruit clip in rubies and diamonds, which is in the permanent collection of the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum. Jacqueline Kennedy wore so many of Schlumberger’s bracelets that the press dubbed them “Jackie bracelets”.
Schlumberger remains one of only four jewelers that Tiffany & Co. has allowed to sign their work: the others are Paloma Picasso, Elsa Peretti and Frank Gehry.
Schlumberger was a very private person but liked to socialize among friends like Cristóbal Balenciaga, Emilio Terry, Diana Vreeland and Hubert de Givenchy.
Schlumberger died in Paris and is buried at Isola di San Michele.